Thailand is one of the easiest countries in the world for a long stay, with one substantial caveat that governs where you can be in which months.
The burning season
Roughly February to April, agricultural burning fills the northern valleys with smoke and air quality in Chiang Mai can become genuinely hazardous — bad enough that people with respiratory conditions leave.
It coincides with what otherwise looks like the ideal dry season, which is why it catches people out.
This is the single most important thing to know before booking a long stay in northern Thailand. Check air quality forecasts and historical data for your dates.
Many long-stayers simply leave for the islands during it, which is a well-established pattern.
The regional weather split
| Region | Best | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| North (Chiang Mai) | Nov–Jan | Feb–Apr burning |
| Andaman (Phuket, Krabi) | Nov–Apr | May–Oct wettest |
| Gulf (Samui, Phangan) | Feb–Sep | Oct–Dec wettest |
| Bangkok | Nov–Feb | Mar–May heat |
The two coasts have opposite rainy seasons, which is what makes year-round staying possible if you move.
Where to base
Chiang Mai — the established long-stay city. Cheap, walkable old city, excellent food, good infrastructure, mountains nearby, and a large international community. Outside burning season it is hard to beat.
Koh Lanta — quieter than the party islands, with a year-round community and a slower pace. Andaman season.
Koh Phangan — beyond the full moon party reputation, the north of the island has a substantial long-stay community. Gulf season.
Bangkok — a real city with everything, at higher cost but still cheap by international standards, and unaffected by burning season.
Chiang Rai or Pai for something quieter, with the same burning season caveat.
What a month costs
| Item | Chiang Mai | Bangkok |
|---|---|---|
| Furnished 1-bed condo | ฿8,000–18,000 | ฿15,000–30,000 |
| Street food meal | ฿40–80 | ฿50–90 |
| Restaurant meal | ฿200–400 | ฿250–500 |
| Scooter rental | ฿2,500–4,000 | — |
| Co-working | ฿3,000–6,000 | ฿4,000–8,000 |
Monthly condo rentals are arranged locally or through Facebook groups at considerably lower prices than international platforms.
Eating local versus western is the whole budget — a street meal costs a fifth of a western café one.
Visas
Visa exemption periods vary by nationality and have changed in recent years, with extensions available at immigration offices for a fee.
Tourist visas obtained in advance allow longer stays, and longer-term options exist for specific circumstances.
Thai visa rules change relatively often. Check the current official position rather than relying on any article, and note that border runs have been increasingly restricted.
Practical
Scooters are the standard transport and the most common cause of serious injury to visitors. The correct licence category on an international permit is required for insurance to be valid.
Never leave a passport as a rental deposit.
Air purifiers are standard equipment in Chiang Mai apartments and are worth checking for.
Water — refill stations are everywhere and cost almost nothing.
Bank account requires specific documentation and is not straightforward on a tourist entry.